Apizza Scholls, finally

My friend, Jenn (a new yorker and true pizza lover), was astounded that I'd been in Portland for seven years without eating pizza from Apizza Scholls. For her, this pizzeria's reputation preceded her move to Portland and when she arrived, she was pleasantly surprised that Portland pulls off a pizza akin to her long-time favorite: Grimaldi's, in Brooklyn Heights, NY. She is very serious about Pizza Scholl's distinction in the world, so we went, finally!

Jenn says "it's in the water." Really? "Yah, both Portland and New York have good tap water, for the dough" She swears it's not just her theory, but I have yet to see anyone make a similar claim (which might not be saying anything). Well, at least, it's not one of the several things written on the back of Apizza Scholl's menu as a key factor to a good pie. They claim "the most important factors in making a great pizza are proper dought fermentation, oven management, and the freshest highest quality ingredients available." Rock on. They do get the alchemy right -- their pizza is excellent.

After the first bite of their 'Margo'rita (their take on the traditional Margherita), I exclaimed "sufficiently salted." I hadn't realized what an important factor salt is in the flavor of perfect pizza, but appearantly I'd had INsufficiently salted pizza to know this was right on. Jenn looked at me and said, "no, perfectly salted." We'd even ordered half our 'Margo'rita with anchovies, which surprisingly didn't make that side too salty. The preserved little fish were marvelous additions! We chewed slowly, taking it all in. My first piece was gone before I even thought about the crushed red pepper (the number of bites before I want the red pepper being my gauge for how well-flavored the pizza is)!

Savoring our second slice, we discussed the "burnt" aspect of the dough. Jenn had showed me to "check upskirt" (see the action shot, above). This, apparently, is to check for evidence of the markings of good oven management, the high-heat, coal-oven kisses, according to Apizza Scholl's website. "Looks perfect," she says. Their menu also sheds some light on black spots. The only thing they have written in bold font reads like a precautionary statement: "Due to extreme temperatures the crust will take on a charred appearance. Although the spots on the crust may be black, the quick baking produces a superficial char, taking on a smoky and caramelized set of flavors...yum!" They got it right. It's a "superficial char," i.e., not burnt. This is exactly why it doesn't taste like burnt toast. The temperatures in their oven range from 650 - 900 degrees F. That's HOT.

Jenn has her own take on the char flavor. Get this: she finds an essence of the perfectly toasted marshmallow in their crust. She's careful in her analogy, though; it's not sweet, but it's there, she says. I understood what she meant: perfectly toasted on the outside, light and fluffy inside. But it wasn't til my last slice that it jumped out at me. I chewed more slowly and closed my eyes. There it is! I got it; I felt it. I waived the sensation up into my nose and ate all my crust, delighted at this discovery.

I have to make one negative point (sorry, Jenn): Apizza Scholls needs to work on their atmosphere. Their pizza rivals the best of New York pizza and the creators adhere to the pizzaiolo standards of Italy, but I felt like I was in suburbia. Sterile tables and walls and generic chairs. Light colored wood and clutter on the bar. Bad lighting. Their "art" (pizza made of metal) was hung too high to be appreciated, though I hope the close-up entertains you. Jenn pointed out that if this place was in NY, there'd be 10 tables where there are two here. Understandably, Apizza Scholls couldn't hold any more tables because they're a family-run pizza joint and they can only make so much pizza in one day. But c'mon, they are so successful, they could hire some help and a decorator to enhance the experience. They work so hard to make a perfect product, I just want their decor to support the effort.

I should say, though, their well-chosen BEER selection sure does support their aim toward perfection! The Anchor Steam Amber was the perfect compliment. I can't say, yet, whether Apizza Scholls gets my label of "perfect" (my highest award), but remember, I'm a whore - almost all of it makes me really happy. Next time I'm ordering the "Tartufo Bianco" which comes with mozzarella, pecorino romano, truffle oil and sea salt!